Canon EOS-1V (takes one 2CR5 lithium battery, 35.6 oz./1,004g with battery and film, $1,900 new or about $500 used if you know How to Win at eBay; I paid only $389 for this one) and Canon EF 50mm f/1.0 L USM. bigger. I bought this one at this link directly to them at eBay, and B&H sells them brand-new. Amazon also sells them.
This free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live — but I receive nothing for my efforts if you buy elsewhere. I get no government hand-outs and run no pledge drives to support my research, so please always use any of these links for the best prices and service whenever you get anything. Thanks for helping me help you! Ken.
I've been getting my film directly from B&H and Adorama ever since the 1970s; you've never been able to get pro film at local retail stores. I use NCPS to process and scan all my film. If you're reading this you have a mailbox and can get all the film and processing you need; B&H and Adorama ship worldwide, and NCPS does mail-order work from around the world every day.
Back Left, Canon EOS-1V. enlarge.
Top, Canon EOS-1V. enlarge.
Solid professional build quality.
No perceptible shutter delay when shooting with flash.
Feels great, handles fast and is well-damped with very little shutter vibration or mirror flap.
Great autofocus system practically sees in the dark.
Big, clear and bright finder.
The AF zones light magically in red and don't obstruct the subject in the finder.
The viewfinder diopter control is hidden behind the eyecup so it doesn't get knocked as you're shooting.
"Registered AF Point" button lets you get back and forth easily to a previously selected AF point or points.
Multi spot metering with up to 8 measurements that average automatically. They are shown on the in-finder zone-system bar graph, and just turn the rear dial to place your exposure differently on the zone scale if you prefer. See how to use multi-spot metering.
AF areas have to be selected with two dials; there is no thumb controller or eye control.
The Auto-AF Area select mode hesitates for a small fraction of a second to think before it selects an AF area — but it's ultra-fast when you have selected your AF point manually.
45 AF areas (good), but they are all in the center of the image. There are no AF areas throughout most of the image — but this is still the case with every SLR and DSLR as of 2014.
Reads DX code and gives only exactly 24 or 36 exposures.
No built-in flash.
Back right, Canon EOS-1V. enlarge.
The Canon EOS-1V is Canon's top-of-the line 35mm SLR; their best EOS autofocus 35mm SLR ever. As Canon's top-of-the-line, the sales brochure is 32 pages long, and the "Technical Overview" brochure is 48 pages long. The EOS-1V contains everything Canon knows about making a top-notch professional camera.
The EOS 1V was the camera that captured most sports and news photos seen in magazines from its introduction in 2000 until Canon's DSLRs had enough quality to replace film around 2005. Newspapers had gone to DSLRs in about 1999, but for color weekly and monthly sports magazines, 35mm film shot in the 1V ruled until about 2005.
Because the 1V was the top go-to camera for pro sports shooting, most of the used ones today are battle-worn veterans, not cream puffs pulled from some rich hobbyist's closet. Back in 2000, few rich guys bothered with pro 35mm cameras; they bought Hasselblads instead. That's OK, because the 1V is born to run and shoot hard. I wouldn't worry about buying a worn one; that means it shoots and shoots well.
From a shooter's standpoint, the EOS-1V is a joy to use. Everything feels great and works fast and easy. It's solid, fast, smooth, quiet and simple.
The finder is clean and clear, with AF points that light up only as needed, and then disappear — unlike any Nikon AF 35mm SLR.
Autofocus just goes, immediately focussing in any kind of light — better than some of Nikon's newest DSLRs like the D600, which will choke and stall in very dark light.
Introduced in 2000 as a professional camera designed for professionals back when we still had professional photographers, it has only what it needs, and isn't trashed-out with junk features for online hobbyists. This camera is designed for serious shooters, not for feature hounds. The EOS-1V gets the job done fast, letting the pro get on to his next paying gig.
The EOS-1V is a solid, professional camera made mostly of metal. The EOS 1V is a ruggedized, solid-magnesium-alloy version of the mostly plastic EOS-3, without the EOS 3's mind-controlled autofocus. With this EOS-1V, you have to select your AF zone with the dials, not by just thinking about your subject.
EOS 1V Versions top
There are two versions, the regular EOS-1V shown here, and the EOS-1V HS (High Speed) with a big vertical battery grip.
You can turn one camera into the other by changing the grip. While it's easy to buy either version today, it is more difficult to buy just a grip alone to change one version into the other.
Get the EOS-1V for most uses today, and only get the huge EOS 1V HS if you don't mind all the extra size, weight and batteries in exchange for having vertical controls. I don't know of anyone today who shoots 35mm still film faster than 3.5 FPS.
The camera is so smart that different advance mode options will be displayed depending on the battery pack you have installed. The regular EOS-1V seen here offers only single or continuous (3.5 FPS). The EOS-1V HS offers single, continuous low (CL, 3 FPS) and continuous high (CH, ~6 FPS), and only with the NP-E2 nickel-hydride pack will you see the ultra-high speed continuous mode (CH*, 10 FPS) as you cycle through the advance mode options.
The EOS-1V (includes small GR-E2 grip for one 2CR5 battery)
The smaller version seen here, the EOS-1V shoots about 50 rolls of 36-exposure film at up to 3.5 FPS on one 2CR5 lithium battery which sells for about $6. The EOS-1V comes with the small GR-E2 grip that holds the 2CR5 battery.
BP-E1 Battery Pack (4 AA)
There is an optional BP-E1 battery pack (about $75 used) that mounts under the camera and holds 4-AA cells in addition to the 2CR5 in the camera.
This shoots at the same 3.5 FPS maximum, and lets you switch between the AAs or the 2CR5.
This battery pack has no vertical controls. People bought it so they could use AA cells if they forgot to bring a spare 2CR5 with them. Back in this grip's day, 2CR5 cost about $15 each, but today at $6, there's no reason not to use the small and lightweight 2CR5 with the standard small GR-E2 grip.
Power Drive Booster E1 (8 AA)
The Power Drive Booster E1 (about $100 used) holds 8 AA cells and came out originally for the EOS 1 in 1989 to bring it up to 5.5 FPS. It also works on the EOS 1N of 1994, bringing it to 6 FPS, and the EOS-3 of 1998, bringing it to 6 FPS.
Canon doesn't talk about using this big vertical grip on the EOS 1V. I tried it, and it works fine. The Power Drive Booster E1 gives both CL (3 FPS) and CH (clocked at 6 FPS) modes, and the one button on the back is the AEL (*) control. There is a lock-out slide switch for the vertical shutter release, an that's it for controls on the grip.
The EOS-1V HS (includes big Power Drive Booster E2 for 8 AA cells)
The EOS-1V HS (High Speed) uses a bigger grip with full vertical controls, the Power Drive Booster PB-E2 that replaces the smaller GR-E2 grip of the regular EOS-1V. This larger grip takes either 8-AA cells that let you shoot at up to 7 FPS, shooting about 120 rolls of 36 with lithium AAs or 85 rolls with regular alkalines.
If you opt for the NP-E2 dedicated nickel-hydride battery pack (which requires the dedicated NC-E2 charger), you can shoot at up to 10 FPS and shoot about 70 rolls of 36 on a charge. With AA cells, you can shoot at up to 6 FPS.
Today, unless you really need to shoot faster than 3 FPS or need vertical controls, the standard EOS 1V is the one to get, otherwise you'll be lugging around 8-AA cells everywhere you go. This is a huge advantage of the EOS-1V over its contemporary Nikon F5 today, which only takes 8-AA cells and had no more rational version (today, the Nikon F6 is the way to go in Nikon).
Standard 35mm film.
Full-frame 24 x 36mm image area.
CMOS AF sensors.
I've been getting my film directly from B&H and Adorama ever since the 1970s, and they ship world-wide. I use NCPS to process and scan all my film, and they do mail-order from anyplace on earth daily. If you're reading this, you have a mailbox, and can get all the film and processing you need.
Reads DX-coded film from ISO 25 to ISO 5,000.
Front, Canon EOS-1V. enlarge.
All full-frame Canon autofocus lenses, called "EF."
Small-format "EF-S" and "EF-M" lenses won't mount.
TTL-AREA-SIR with a CMOS sensor.
45 focus points.
LV 0 - 18.
No AF assist light on camera; use flashes with AF assist lights if you need it and you can focus in the dark on a flat wall!
Canon EOS 1V Viewfinder, actual view.
0.72x magnification with 50mm lens.
AF points light additively in red, and disappear completely when off so the finder stays clean.
-3 ~ +1 diopter.
8 optional others.
LV 0 - 18 with f/1.4 lens.
21-zone silicon photocell.
[ ( • ) ] 21-zone Evaluative, also linked to selected focus point.
[ ( ) ] 8.5% "Partial" meter.
[ • ] 2.4% Spot, linked to focus point.
[ ] Center-weighted averaging.
It has both a dedicated hot shoe as well as a threaded, covered PC (Prontor-Compur) terminal.
It works brilliantly with all current EX flashes, as well as previous EZ flashes.
Flash exposure reads through-the-lens (TTL) and off-the-film (OTF) as it exposes.
E-TTL, A-TTL and TTL.
It has flash sensors both in the finder to measure preflashes (E-TTL), as well as sensors reading the light reflecting from the film as exposed (A-TTL).
It reads exposure linked to the selected focus point.
Flash Sync Speed (maximum shutter speed with flash)
Vertical metal focal plane.
30 seconds to 1/8,000 second.
2 or 10 seconds.
Continuous (3 FPS)
With some versions, also Continuous High (6 FPS) and possibly Continuous Ultra-High (10 FPS).
N3 connector for use with Canon's dedicated remote cords.
3 FPS in AF, 3.5 FPS in manual focus.
To 6 FPS with an 8-AA battery pack, and to 10 FPS with the NC-E2 Nickel-hydride pack.
See Versions for details.
Just pull the leader to the red dot and close the back.
Rewind (36 exposures)
8 second motorized rewind at 59 dBA.
CFN for 18 second rewind at 49 dBA.
Special Canon cord required to connect to a computer only with EOS Link Software ES-E1.
2CR5 lithium battery, good for 50 rolls of 36 exposures.
Other battery packs use 4-AA or 8-AA cells or special NP-E2 nickel-hydride pack.
See Versions for details.
Very simple battery-level icon.
Bottom, Canon EOS-1V. enlarge.
Made in Japan.
EOS-1V (with GR-E2)
161 x 120.8 x 70.8 millimeters.
6.3 x 4.7 x 2.8 inches.
EOS-1V HS (with PB-E2)
161 x 164.3 x 82.5 millimeters.
6.3 x 6.4 x 3.2 inches.
EOS-1V (with GR-E2)
34.645 oz. (982.2 g) measured with battery.
35.618 oz. (1,004.3 g) measured with battery and film.
Canon rates it at 33 oz. (945 g) stripped naked.
EOS-1V HS (with PB-E2)
Canon rates it as 48.7 oz. (1,380 g), stripped naked.
EOS-1 V Body
Neck Strap L3
Eye Cup Ec II
Grip GR-E2 (or Power Drive Booster PB-E2 for EOS 1V HS)
Optional Accessories top
Grips (interchangeable with the EOS-3)
See Versions for more about battery grips.
No vertical controls; mostly a way to run the camera on AAs instead of 2CR5.
Vertical release button, lock and AEL buttons only.
Originally the high-speed pack for the 1989 EOS 1.
Vertical release button, lock, AEL and AF area select buttons.
ET-1000N3 10 meter extension cord.
RA-N3 remote switch adapter (lets you use older T3 remotes).
All EX and EZ flashes. In its day, the 550EX, 380EX and 220EX flashes were popular.
Eyepiece diopters and Ec anti-fog eyepieces.
The EOS 1V is fast, smooth and easy to use. It didn't become the top pro sports SLR for nothing.
Loading and Winding
Loading is fast; just draw the film tip to the orange dot and close the door. Rewind measures only 8.9 seconds for a roll or 36.
The frame counter is smaller than I'd like on the top LCD, but it's also in finder so who cares?
The tinted film-door window makes it hard to read film type.
36 or 24 exactly, with DX film.
Infra-red film works great in the EOS-1V.
Yes, it uses an optical film-position sensor, but unlike the EOS-3, the sensor in the EOS-1V is designed to work without fogging infra-red film.
Autofocus is better than most of Canon's DSLRs as of 2014. The AF areas are indicated in the finder even better than they are in the 1D X, and the AF system is fast and sure right into darkness. It sees into nearly pitch black. With the 220EX flash's infrared AF illuminator, it's easy to focus on a blank dark wall at 20 feet (6 meters) in pitch black. Not only does the 1V focus well in the dark, it's fast, too!
The unique "Registered AF Point" button lets you get back and forth easily to a previously selected AF point or points.
There are ONE SHOT and AI SERVO focus modes, but here is no AI FOCUS mode as found on amateur cameras, which automatically selects one of the other modes.
There are zillions of sensors, but they're all in the middle of the frame.
The "Use All AF Zones" mode takes a moment to pick sensors, while AF is super fast if you've picked the sensor yourself.
See also the AF section of Usage.
The 1V finder is clear, bright and super sharp. The diopter control is under the eyecup so it doesn't get knocked. Hooray!
It's clean and simple with only what you need to know.
AF area indicators never interfere with the image.
There are two ± 3 stop vertical bar graphs on the right side. One is for ambient exposure and one for flash exposure. Both blank out when setting flash exposure compensation, but otherwise they always appear, even when set to zero.
The frame counter is under the bar graphs.
There is no exposure mode indication, the finder blacks out as you set them.
The flash bolt is green.
The matte screen shows the depth of field well, even for f/1.8 lenses. Most SLRs and DSLRs can't show depth of field properly for lenses faster than f/2.5, while the 1V is better than average here.
Noise is only moderate, which is very quiet for a high speed pro camera.
There is very little vibration as shot; the mirror, shutter and advance are all expertly damped.
In Bulb mode, there's a MM:SS counter on the top LCD.
The 1V is very easy to figure out and very fast and easy to shoot. It's extremely well thought out for pro use so it's got exactly what a pro needs, and isn't cluttered with all the other junk that clogs up consumer cameras. The 1V is meant to go, and to go fast.
Leave the power switch set to ON and it's always ready with zero delay.
The LCD illumination button is too far away from my trigger finger.
The mode buttons are well marked, but not lit.
If you turn on the beeper, it's quiet enough probably for only you to hear, which is very good!
The CFN, M.Fn and multiexposure buttons are hidden under a flap so they don't get in the way.
There are 20 numeric custom functions, and even more really foolish ones that can be set only with the EOS Link Software ES-E1 and the special cable to connect it.
Meter and Exposure
Reads to > -3 stops at 30 seconds at ISO 100 in all meter patterns at full aperture, meaning it reads to 4 minutes wide-open at f/1.4 if you know your exposures.
Program shift works in full stops, and cancels when power sleeps or the shutter fires. There's no indication of when you're at the default program.
The Program mode is optimized for action and sports, it uses 1/125 at f /4 instead of 1/125 at /5.6 with a 28mm lens.
The program shifts with focal length.
It works with all current EX flashes, as well as previous EZ flashes.
The newest EX flashes enable the E-TTL mode which means you can get flash-exposure lock (FEL) and high-speed sync — neither of which I've ever used.
I prefer the older EZ flashes which give the A-TTL mode which often uses an infra-red "ping" as you half-press the shutter to preset and show you the optimum aperture based on subject distance. With EZ flashes, instead of dumbly shooting everything at f/4 as does the E-TTL system, with most larger EZ flashes you'll shoot at larger apertures at long distances to extend range, and smaller apertures at closer distances for better depth-of field — all set automatically.
The top LCD is small and hard to read.
The EL backlight is cyan and relatively dim. It's dim so you can read it when you need to, but not so bright that you annoy people as you're shooting an event.
The displayed digits are thin and small.
The exposure mode letters are small, and are in different locations around the LCD.
The ONE SHOT and AI SERVO indicators are reasonably legible, as are the meter and advance mode icons.
It's almost all magnesium alloy, except for the film back and flippy-door on your shooting hand's side.
Roll Number Imprinting
The EOS-1V always imprints a roll number on the film leader, whether you like it or not.
This is in the form XX-YYY.
You can set XX to any two digits you like, for instance, use a different number for each of your EOS-1V bodies when covering an event. This way you'll know who made which shot after you develop all the rolls, since you can know who was issued what cameras.
To set your two digits, see Usage.
You can turn off roll number imprinting if you use the DB-E2 data back.
Exposure Data Recording
It also records 100 rolls of data internally, but requires you to buy Canon's dedicated EOS Link Software ES-E1 and cable to read it. I don't know that this software is sold anymore, or if it runs on the newest computers.
Battery and Power
The throw-away 2CR5 battery used to cost $15 back in the day, but at $6 and rated about 50 rolls of 36, I love it.
The 2CR5 is almost weightless, and as a primary lithium battery, lasts for years in storage or in the 1V if you don't use it. Unlike DSLRs or other kinds of batteries, the 1V is always ready to shoot if you haven't shot it in months or even years.
Compared to the EOS 3
You're probably considering the EOS-3 as well. They have almost the same specifications and features. The 1V is two years newer than the EOS 3. I own both.
The EOS 3 is plasticy consumer camera, while the 1V is a precision metal work of art that feels great in your hand.
This 1V wins by feel alone, unless you're set on the fantastic mind-controlled focus of the EOS 3. Most EOS 3 users only use the mind-control focus for a little while and wind up setting AF areas manually, in which case, the 1V wins again.
Both the 1V and EOS 3 take the same grips to become as small or large as you like.
Compared to the Nikon F5
The Nikon F5's 8 AA battery grip is a permanent part of the camera. There is no way to scale it down to a rational size today as we can with all the other cameras here with optional grips.
The F5 is the toughest camera here, all one solid block of metal built to take the biggest beating of any of these. The F5 is Nikon's toughest pro camera ever, and almost asks to be abused while shooting.
That's great, but I find the F5 too big today, since I'm not shooting news or sports on 35mm anymore.
Both the 1V and F5 competed directly against each other with pros in their day. The Canon was the choice of sports shooters, while news shooters used each about as much.
The F5 has fewer AF areas than the 1V, but it's much easier to select them because the F5 has a rear touch pad lacking in the 1V. The F5 can track a subject as it moves around the finder, while the 1V cannot move its selected AF point automatically.
The 1V has an excellent meter that sees in 21 segments of black-and-white, while the F5 has an infallible 1,005 segment color meter. The F5's meter is probably better, but it only matters when shooting slide (transparency) film.
Compared to the Nikon F6
The F6 is the most comfortable, pleasant and smoothest camera out there today. It's more refined and newer than the 1V, but not as tough.
The F6 is designed not for pros, but for seasoned amateurs and pros on their days off. The F6 is designed to shoot what we shoot on 35mm today, not sports at 10 FPS in the driving rain.
The F6 is the best 35mm SLR for what we shoot 35mm film today, which is nature, fine art, portraits and travel. We no longer need 10 frames per second for shooting news and sports on 35mm film.
The Nikon F6 is the most expensive of these, new or used.
The F6 has fewer AF areas than the 1V, but it's much easier to select them because the F6 has a rear touch pad lacking in the 1V. The F6 can track a subject as it moves around the finder, while the 1V cannot move its selected AF point automatically.
The 1V has an excellent meter that sees in 21 segments of black-and-white, while the F6 also has an infallible 1,005 segment color meter. The F6's meter is probably better, but it only matters when shooting slide (transparency) film.
Back, Canon EOS-1V. enlarge.
See also Canon's page on the EOS-1V, where you'll find the link to the user's manual.
Loading and Rewinding
Put the film tip at the orange dot and close the door.
It will flash the ISO as DX film loads.
After rewind, nothing but the cassette icon blinks on the top LCD. The finder and camera otherwise are dead as a hint to change your film.
ISO stays at the last DX reading when film is removed.
Leave it on and it's always ready. It doesn't drain the batteries unless the shutter button gets tapped.
To set the diopter, lift the eyepiece cover straight up to uncover it.
Flip the lever on the right top open and close the eyepiece blind.
AF is simple to set. Choose ONE SHOT for still subjects and AI SERVO for action, and then select what AF sensor(s) to use. As a pro camera, it's built to GO! and not bog you down with too many settings like consumer cameras.
ONE SHOT means it focuses and locks. If it can't focus, it won't shoot.
AI SERVO means it keeps focussing as long as the shutter's halfway down. it will shoot whether or not its in focus.
To choose sensors, hold the [•:::•] button at the top rear and spin the rear and top dials.
You can choose either just one sensor, the usual mode, or if a ring of sensors light as you're selecting them, the 1V automatically selects which sensors to use. The 1V takes a moment to auto-select sensors; if you're shooting action, select the sensor yourself.
A unique feature is that you may assign a focus point to the Registered Focus Point Button (top right [ > o < ] button), and when you press that button you get right back to that preset point. See Registered Focus Point.
Unlike Nikons or newer DSLRs, when you set an AF point, it's set. The 1V can track a subject moving away or towards the camera, but cannot track a subject if it moves around the finder.
The green dot at the bottom of the finder blinks rapidly if the 1V can't find focus.
I found no way to program an on-camera button to be an AF lock in the AI SERVO mode; use the ONE SHOT mode for that.
Set "MF" on your lens.
You pick the sensor as above. It gets a little lighter in the finder, and the green dot at the bottom lights when you're in focus.
Unlike some other cameras, each AF area doesn't blip as it comes in or out of focus.
Advance Modes and Self Timers
Hold the two buttons marked DRIVE and turn the top dial. You'll see the single frame, continuous modes at whatever speeds are available for the grip you're using, as well as the 10s and 2s self timer modes come up as you turn the top dial.
You have to stop and look at the top LCD; there is no finder indication as the advance mode is set.
[ ( • ) ] 21-zone Evaluative, also linked to selected focus point. I always use this mode.
[ ( ) ] 8.5% "Partial" meter.
[ • ] 2.4% Spot, linked to focus point.
[ ] Center-weighted averaging.
In continuous (sequence) shooting, the exposure is set anew for each shot in Evaluative and Partial, but locked at the first reading in Spot and Center-Weighted.
You should know the Zone System to use this well.
The right-side vertical bar graph isn't marked with zone values, but the middle mark is Zone V. Each big mark is one zone, so the scale goes from Zone II at the bottom to Zone VIII at the top, which is the dynamic range of most film. There are arrows to show you if anything exceeds this dynamic range.
To use Multi Spot Metering,
1.) Select Spot meter.
2.) Tap FEL to make the first reading. You'll see a dot appear at zero on the finder's bar graph, and another dot moving up and down to show you the relative brightness of the spot meter relative to that reading as the camera moves around.
3.) Tap FEL again for each subsequent reading. You'll see more dots appear on the bar graph, and they'll all move up and down together as the EOS-1V changes its exposure to average them as each new reading is added. You'll always see the other dot moving, showing the relative brightness as seen by the spot meter as you move around the camera.
4.) The EOS-1V will averages all these readings and places the exposure as it guesses. You'll see their zone system placements on the vertical bar graph, and as you point the camera around, can see the zone placement of any region seen by the spot meter.
5.) To change the zone system placements, simply turn the rear dial to move them all up or down together.
Use any EX or older EZ flash you prefer.
I prefer the older EZ flashes since they use a preflash as you half-press the shutter to preset the aperture automatically in PROGRAM mode, while the newest EX flashes always default to the same aperture based on film speed.
The newer EX flashes let you use the flash exposure lock (FEL) which the EZ flashes don't.
If using the PC terminal with strobes, keep the center terminal positive.
BULB is a mode set with the MODE button, just like PROGRAM or Av.
There is an MM:SS timer on the top LCD, but none in the finder.
CFNs are easy to set and check — but they only work in digits, not English. Canon includes stickers to post your favorites inside the access door for your reference.
To set and check them, open the right flap and tap C.Fn. Turn the top dial to select any of F0 through F19, and you'll see it's setting just below it. Default for each is 0, except for CFN 0, whose default curiously is 1.
As a guide to what's set or not, the long bar along the bottom of the top LCD will show some black dots for functions set away from default.
Once you've set your preferences, just tap the shutter to exit. If you don't tap the shutter, there's no way to exit other than the power switch, and if you don't exit these settings, the EOS 1V will stay on forever.
See Canon's page on the EOS-1V where you'll find the link to the user's manual which explains all the other CFNs.
These are the two CFNs I set away from their defaults:
16: Safety Shift
Safety shift lets the 1V shift your selected aperture or shutter speed in Av or Tv modes if it has to to get the correct exposure if it runs out of shutter speeds or apertures.
I set this ON (1).
This lets you select (register) one point, and then get back to it quickly.
When you get your EOS-1V, the registered point is probably the center point.
To register a different point, first select it, and then while the selection mode is still active (about 6 seconds after you press [•:::•] ), hold the [ > • < ] button and tap FEL at the same time.
You may register one point at a time, or the AUTO SELECT (use all points) mode, too.
Once registered (or with the center point probably registered by default), you recall this registered point in these ways depending on how you set CFN 16:
0 (default): You need two thumbs to hit both the [ > • < ] and [•:::•] buttons at the same time to get back to the selected point. Once you press this, you're back at the registered point, with no easy getting back to the previous point.
1: Tap [ > • < ] to get back to your registered point. Once you press this, you're back at the registered point, with no easy getting back to the previous point.
2 (my preference): Hold [ > • < ] to get back to your registered point, and when you let go, you're back to the AF area you were using before. I use this mode because it makes it easy to swap between two points just by holding or releasing the button.
To set the first two digits of the roll number, press the M.Fn button (under the right-side flap) a couple of times until " ID" shows on the left side of the top LCD and a two-digit number blinks. Turn the top dial to set the number, and tap the shutter to get back to shooting.
This is easy, but you can only set this when the camera is empty. Since it imprints as the roll is loaded, it would make no sense to let you change the setting with film in the camera, since as soon as film is loaded, the roll has already been imprinted.
I wouldn't use any of the big grips that take AA cells unless if I was shooting hundreds of rolls a day, which I don't think anyone does anymore. Use an AA grip if you really want vertical controls and don't mind a huge camera.
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More Information top
Canon's page on the EOS-1V (where you'll find the link to the user's manual)
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